Today, I was up and out of the door early, riding by around 7:30 AM. As soon as I left my AirBNB, I noticed just how windy it was. The next few hours were spent fighting a steady 15+ MPH headwind riding along the highway toward La Paz. The noise from cars and trucks, combined with the constant wind noise was difficult to block out. AirPods Pro 2 can only do so much to reduce the outside sounds.
The highlight of 20 miles along the highway was finding myself at Lonchería la Garita. I happened upon the restaurant right around the time I was considering a lunch break, so I dropped in for a machaca burrito, some fresh pressed cheese, refried beans, tortilla chips, a large Fanta orange soda, and a bottle of electrolyte drink. After a welcome break from the highway, I hopped back on Hobbes for 6 more miles of pavement before turning east on a dirt road back into the mountains.
The next 8 miles was a mix of hard packed dirt and loose, rideable sand through forests of mesquite and cacti with roadrunners and doves all around. There were ranches on both sides of the road which means lots of cattle poop and the occasional cattle grazing along the roadside. I passed directly through one ranch, passing through a small herd of cattle and right past the ranch house. Eventually I reached the north end of el Valle Perdido, the Lost Valley, where I turned north to ride into el Rosario.
In el Rosario I stopped in at the local tienda for four liters of water and two beers. I rode two minutes down the road to el Santuario de los Cactus and found it gated. Back to the tienda, the owners let me know they had called Lupe and that he would meet me at the sanctuary. I could let myself in – the gate was to keep the cattle out, not people.
Back to the sanctuary, I let myself in and began to set up my tent under the future entrance building to stay out of the wind. Eventually a car drives up and I meet Lupe for the first time. Lupe is the caretaker of the sanctuary, a job he’s been doing for about 3 years. His brother was the caretaker before him for 28 years! Lupe shows me around, sets me up with a nice fire, a grate to cook over, and a chair to sit in. He proudly showed off the baby cacti he planted. I had no idea that cacti sprout with a pair of cotyledons! Lupe left with a promise to return at 7:30 AM for a personal tour of the sanctuary.
I made a quick dinner which I ate by the fire. I consumed at least a liter of water and a pair of cans of Tecate while reading by the fire. Tired, I put out the fire, climbed into my tent, and listened to an audiobook until I fell asleep.
Bikepacking for Nerds 
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